As the name implies, this American wildlife refuge is among the most remote places on earth. Less than 150 miles east of the International Dateline, Midway Atoll is truly "midway" in the Pacific Ocean, about 2,800 miles west of San Francisco and 2,200 miles east of Japan. Though it is part of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, even Honolulu, Hawaii is 1,200 miles away!

Prior to the same geological birth of every Hawaiian Island in turn, Midway’s formation some 30 million years ago was volcanic, rising as a mountainous land mass from a hot spot on the Pacific Ocean floor. Over millions of years, the forces of wind, water and changing sea levels eroded the top of the ancient basalt rock until it is now 500 feet below the ocean surface. Meanwhile, a fringing coral reef gradually formed around the island with its constantly eroding white sand creating three picturesque islands – Sand, Spit, and Eastern – that make up the atoll as visitors see it today.

Eighteen species of seabirds nest each year within the Midway Atoll National Wildlife Refuge. The total population of nesting seabirds is nearly 2 million. Midway features the world's largest colony of Laysan Albatross (nearly 390,000 nesting pairs in 2008) and the largest colonies of Red-tailed Tropic birds, Black Noddies and White Terns within the Hawaiian archipelago.

One exceedingly rare species at Midway is the Short-tailed Albatross, or "Golden Gooney" which last nested successfully there in 1962. “We have had one adult Short-tailed Albatross (shown with the decoys) here for ten years,” recounts Refuge Manager, Barry Christenson. “Last year we were really excited when a sub-adult showed up and this year two sub-adults, one of which danced with each of the two assumed males. Many of our visitors are serious birders so it is a very unique sighting for them.”

The various seabird species that do nest at Midway divide the limited habitat by selecting different sites to lay their eggs, such as burrows under the ground, surface sites in the open or under the vegetation and perches within shrubs or taller trees. Click here for a more in-depth look at Midway's bird fauna.

Midway Atoll National Wildlife Refuge includes 581,684 acres of lagoon and surrounding near-shore waters. Over 250 species of fish and a huge diversity of marine invertebrates inhabit the lagoon and surrounding waters. It is an undisturbed snorkeling paradise.

Sharing the marine habitat are approximately 50-65 Hawaiian monk seals, a species in serious danger of extinction. Midway's beaches provide critically important habitat where monk seals raise their pups. Threatened green sea turtles are most common offshore from Sand Island's beaches, but they are seen by divers and fishermen throughout the lagoon and surrounding near-shore waters. About 300 spinner dolphins also inhabit Midway's lagoon during daylight hours before heading out to see to feed at night.

Midway Atoll is part of the Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument, the single largest conservation area under the U.S. flag, and second largest marine conservation area in the world. Created by Presidential proclamation on June 15, 2006, it encompasses 137,797 square miles of the Pacific Ocean (105,564 square nautical miles) – an area larger than all U.S. national parks combined.

The extensive coral reefs found in Papahānaumokuākea – truly the rainforests of the sea – are home to over 7,000 marine species, one quarter of which are found only in the Hawaiian Archipelago. Many of the islands and shallow water environments are important habitats for rare species such as the threatened green sea turtle and the endangered Hawaiian monk seal.

Papahānaumokuākea is also of great cultural importance to Native Hawaiians with significant cultural sites found on the islands of Nihoa and Mokumanamana.

Three green sea turtles and a rare Hawaiian monk seal make comfortable beach mates. Pete Leary

The facilities at Midway supported from 3,000 to 5,000 people, reaching a peak during the Cold War. While the resident human population is now less than 80, much of the original “small city” infrastructure remains in place. This includes roads, electricity, communications, an airport, and a variety of recreation spaces and activities. There are 120 buildings and other structures of which 63 are historically significant, mainly related to World War II. The atoll was shelled by Japanese destroyers on the same day in December 1941 as Hawaii’s Pearl Harbor fleet was attacked. However, it was the decisive naval Battle of Midway off its shores in June 1942 that is credited with turning the tide of the war in the Pacific, and, some historians say, of World War II itself.

With the closure of Naval Air Facility Midway Island in 1993, there began a transition from bullets to birds, a change in mission from national defense to wildlife conservation. Today, the refuge is devoted to four goals: 1. conservation and recovery of threatened and endangered species of animals and plants, including the natural diversity of marine habitats. 2. provision of opportunities for wildlife-focused recreation, education and scientific research. 3. preservation and interpretation of the unique human history of Midway Atoll. 4. operation of an important emergency air field for commercial jets crossing the North Pacific.

Between 2002 and 2007, more than 5,000 people visited Midway, almost exclusively on brief shore excursions from cruise ships crossing the Pacific. Many of those visitors came primarily to tour the Battle of Midway National Memorial and honor those who fought in World War II. No cruise ships are scheduled to visit the atoll in 2008 or 2009.

Christenson compares Midway to the Galapagos Islands as “absolutely unique in the world” not only for its wildlife, but also for its history. “During 2008, seven small group tours are staying at Midway for one week at a time. Feedback from our early Spring groups indicates that this has been an experience of a lifetime for just about everyone. We hope to expand these low-impact, educational tours in 2009. Coming to Midway is now very much a possibility, although the number of visitors who stay on the atoll will always remain small.”

Midway Atoll National Wildlife Refuge has a modest, but evolving, volunteer program. At any time of year, two or three volunteers are likely to be found on site. Normally making a 12-week volunteer commitment in exchange for a round trip flight from Honolulu with room and board at the refuge, volunteers assist with habitat restoration that includes growing native species in the greenhouse, outplanting them in the field, and hand-pulling non-native plants. In addition, they may help with seabird monitoring and marine debris removal. Click here for details and application forms.

How to visit: At this time, independent travelers may not book to stay at the refuge. In 2008, only California-based Oceanic Society Expeditions is offering educational natural history expeditions with select conservation activities for 16 people per week between March and December. These all-inclusive round trip tours from Honolulu, Hawaii are US$4,890 per person. For birders and anyone passionate about nature, this is a chance to immerse in an environment where nature is honored in every sense of the word.

When to visit: Two distinct seasons mark Midway's climate.December, January and February tend to be cool, windy and wet, with the temperatures dropping into the low 60s. Most of the 42 inches of annual rainfall fall in winter months. May through October tend to be warm and sunny, with most summer days in the high 80s. Weather in spring and fall months is more variable.

For comprehensive information about Midway Atoll, check out www.fws.gov/midway/intro/default.htm.

For more information about the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS), visit www.fws.gov. World War II sites and National Wildlife Refuges would seem to be almost a contradiction in terms, but surprisingly many war sites have become refuges around the US.

Above: Formerly military accommodation, Charlie Barracks now offer comfortable two-room suites for travelers and volunteers. FWS
Right: A picture-perfect tropical view from Clipper House, the refuge’s dining facility. Barry Christenson