It hardly comes as a revelation that the Hawaiian Islands have been the number one choice of vacation destination for Americans and Canadians for much of modern traveling history. In addition, this beautiful necklace of Pacific Islands, more isolated in every direction than any other piece of real estate on earth, has a significant global attraction for visitors from many other nations.

Looking at all the islands' beauty and accessibility today, it is difficult to imagine that they are among the last places on earth to have been occupied by people. Estimated date of the first human foot ashore is about 100 A.D., and significant colonies of Polynesians were not established until several hundred years after that. It wasn't until the 19th century that settlers from America, Europe and Asia impacted the islands each in their own ways.

While today's annual arrivals -- close to three million a year -- come for only a brief stay, a mere 25% sample more than one island. That one island is typically Oahu where, even there, many adventurous and educational surprises await those who venture beyond the obvious and dig deeper for vacation experiences.

Increasingly over the past few years, I have heard rumors that Hawaii's tourism is evolving from a predictably satisfying rest and recreation haven to a destination where travelers may choose to leave behind those tantalizing mass-produced mainstream amenities to sample a more intimate experience of nature, indigenous culture, settler history, and hospitality that is uniquely Hawaiian. If there is indeed an "Alternative Hawaii", brimming with ecological, educational and living cultural treasures accessible to the visitor, I intend to sample and savor what I can on five different islands, beginning the hour my plane's tires hit the runway at the Honolulu airport. No detour via Waikiki for me!

This island is arguably the hardest one to visualize as having in-depth natural, cultural and historical travel experiences because it is so thoroughly associated with mainstream tourism of the sun and sand variety. Most visitors never discover that the island is 80% forested, nor that it is fairly bristling with archaeological sites and a diverse cultural history. Although it has neither the same percentage of native plant species nor birds as are found in the forests on some of the outer islands, there is plenty to see and do within easy distance of Honolulu, even if only on a couple of days' stopover to break the long journey across the Pacific.

Along with some expert Oahu tour operators described in an accompanying segment, I recommend spending a good block of time at the Hawaii Maritime Center on Honolulu Harbor's Pier 7. This fine modern museum is an excellent place to get acquainted with the cultural history of the islands, both Polynesian and Western. The various antique ships and replicas, both bobbing and boardable at the adjacent dockside, dramatically bring home the ingenuity that led to the human settlement and development of these ocean specks called Hawaii.

Self-Driving Oahu? You Won't Miss a Thing!
An award-winning set of brochures produced by the Hawaii Ecotourism Association and launched in 2003 guides rental vehicle visitors along a number of Oahu's backroads, into small towns and picturesque park areas. Freely available in shops and public facilities on the windward side of the island, these simply-designed Tradewind Trail brochures provide a grassroots opportunity for visitors exploring Oahu to learn about the area's history, culture and natural attractions outside Honolulu, encouraging independent explorers to stop for a stroll and a chat with local people. The Tradewind Trail brochures may also be printed out from the HEA website.

In the March/April 2000 issue of National Geographic Adventure magazine, sea kayaking Kauai's Na Pali Coast was rated #2 of America's best 100 adventures-right after rafting Colorado's Grand Canyon. A first glimpse of this coastline will tell you why, as sheer emerald green cliffs tower up to 4,000 feet and waterfalls spill down cliffs into ship-sized sea caves rimmed with a cobalt blue sea. Huge quantities of sea life, from dolphins and whales to sea turtles and manta rays, guarantee a memorable visit and a high level of film consumption.

Equally dramatic in a totally opposite way is the stark, chiseled topography of the vast Waimea Canyon revealing layers of geological history on this, the oldest of Hawaii's islands at a mere 6 million years.

Kauai also has three National Wildlife Refuges that make the island a birdwatcher's paradise. Some offer views of visually spectacular nesting areas along cliff formations; others demonstrate the revival of traditional Hawaiian agriculture in the form of perpetually flooded taro fields that encourage endangered waterbirds to thrive.

Stepping aside from nature exploration, visitors may enjoy a vibrant living history and present day glimpse inside Kauai's sugar cane story, past and present. Sleep with history in one of more than 50 authentically restored and furnished plantation worker cottages in the grounds of Waimea Plantation Cottages, or take a Gay and Robinson field and factory tour of the last operating sugar cane plantation and processing mill on Kauai, one of only two left in Hawaii and the only one with tours.

Nearly every one of the Big Island's stunningly diverse ecosystems -- from stark lava fields to lush valleys -- boasts its own internationally recognized park for hiking and tour-guided exploration. Living up to its nickname, it definitely qualifies as the largest island thanks to its lively history of volcanic eruptions, still creating new real estate and redefining the shoreline every day.

The Big Island's ecosystem and geographical diversity is what makes it like a fascinating continent in miniature. An entire holiday is barely enough time to sample its natural treasures, ranging from 13,800-foot volcanic peaks to inviting bays and shorelines for whale- and dolphin-watching. In between these extremes, visitors have a chance to explore mountains and rivers, lush rainforests, the rims and valley bottoms of deeply chiseled valleys, and limited-access environments harboring some of the rarest bird and plant species on Earth.

If there is a crown jewel on this island full of gems, it must surely be the 230,000-acre Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, whose core is situated mid-island around the charming settlement of Volcano Village. A minimum three-day stay in a good choice of comfortable small-scale accommodations allows time to absorb and digest the immensity of nature's power. Equally important is to take time to understand the powerful Hawaiian traditions associated with this spiritually-charged area. Making her home in the world's most active volcano, Mt. Kilauea, the powerful and revered fire goddess, Pele, does not take kindly to being ignored.

Another special region of great cultural significance on the South Kona coast is Pu`uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park, preserving the last remaining example of a Hawaiian "place of refuge". The royal compound includes a sophisticated traditional fishpond, historic structures, and many totems, edged by a small sandy cove with large sea turtles nibbling seaweed at your feet. To this day, the 180-acre oceanfront park is steeped in the rich history of the first arrivals. Park staff members themselves are cultural treasures, sharing their knowledge and skills for the enjoyment and education of both visitors and local residents.

Hilo's Town Center Features First Class Theme Museums
Discovery Center for Hawaii's Remote Coral Reefs: Opened in May 2003, this free entry center showcases the natural science, culture, and history of the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands and surrounding marine environment. Interactive displays, engaging three-dimensional models, and immersive theater allow the visitor to experience the wonder and majesty of this special ocean region. Next to the 2,500 gallon reef fish aquarium in a small alcove is a mock-up of Hawaii Undersea Research Laboratory's Pisces V submersible. Using working robot arms, visitors experience what it might be like as a researcher descending into the dark depths of the ocean. This exhibit is a major hit with the kids, as well as adults.

Pacific Tsunami Museum: Opened in 1994, this museum features dramatic permanent exhibits that interpret the tsunami phenomena and international traveling exhibits as well. One factor that makes this museum unique is that it serves as a living testament to those who lost their lives in past tsunamis. By combining scientific information with compelling oral histories of tsunami survivors, the museum keeps the history alive in its exhibits and public programs.

Snowbirds aside, Maui's favorite seasonal visitors are undoubtedly the humpback whales where, between November and May, two-thirds of all the North Pacific humpbacks descend on Hawaiian waters. Offshore Maui is the center of the action, especially in the shallow waters fronting Molokai and Lanai where pregnant females search out quiet bays to give birth and care for their young calves. And yes, a lot of courting and mating goes on too. Visitors can expect front row seats for whale watching on shore or by boat.

And let's not overlook a very abundant land environment once visitors step away from the mainstream tourist areas. No one has to go far to discover excellent highland and forest valley hiking, volcano exploration, and birdwatching, especially during the migrating season.

Maui is the home of the Pacific Whale Foundation (www.pacificwhale.org) which conducts exciting research and offers in-depth visitor education and volunteer adventure programs. PWF is also a wealth of information on other protected sea creatures throughout the islands, some of which are highly endangered and only found in Hawaiian waters.

Located dead center of the five main islands of the Hawaiian chain, Molokai is a retreat to an earlier, slower paced time-more rural, leisurely, community-oriented, featuring mostly outdoor activities spread out across its 10- by 38-mile domain. With a resident population of less than 7,000, essentially living a Hawaiian lifestyle, it has thus far been touched lightly by tourism compared to its neighbors. Interestingly, when visitors do discover it, this island is the one where they choose to stay the longest.

For years, Molokai was dependent upon large pineapple plantations for its economic base; today its rich farmlands grow many fruits and vegetables, as well as a distinctive gourmet Molokai coffee, not to be missed. Along Molokai's northern shore majestic 2,000-foot cliffs plunge almost vertically to the sea, while the south shore slopes gently into the Pacific, sheltered by the longest reef in the islands. This makes for satisfying and safe sea kayaking and snorkeling. The landscape ranges from desert-like flatlands to fragrant, surprisingly tall pine forests.

The sacrificial and courageous efforts of Father Damien between 1873 and 1889 to serve the isolated leper colony of Kalaupapa is the first thing which comes to mind for most people at the mention of Molokai. Today, the still remote settlement is a rewarding hike or mule ride traversing 26 switchbacks and descending 1,700 feet of spectacular sea cliff scenery.

Hawaiian Travel Websites Galore
Alternative-Hawaii.com
www.gohawaii.com
www.hawaiiecotourism.org
www.visitmaui.com (includes Molokai and Lanai)
www.visit-oahu.com
www.bigisland.org
www.kauaivisitorsbureau.org
www.molokai.com

The Hawaiian Islands make up .2% of the land mass of the United States, but 30% of all endangered plants and birds in the U.S. live here. There is undoubtedly a great urgency for governments and private land owners to work together to buy, manage, and preserve areas where habitat degradation and potential destruction are most evident and predictable. There is also a long-term mission for tourism operators to present creative alternatives for low-impact, grassroots experiences to a travel audience that is surely in the mood for such interactive discovery.

In Janet Babb's excellent book, Hawai`i Volcanoes: The Story Behind the Scenery, the dedication addresses "...all who find Nature not an adversary to conquer and destroy, but a storehouse of infinite knowledge and experience linking man to all things past and present." There is no better place to explore these thoughts than in the Hawaiian Islands.