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Fairmont Le Château Frontenac has Quebec City's best-recognized
historic profile, overlooking Place Royale in the lower Old Port area. Fairmont
Hotels & Resorts |
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Québec
is a four season travel treat for visitors attracted by a deeply-rooted
cultural, historic and artistic tapestry unique in North America. Travel
with a Challenge editor, Alison Gardner, highlights one of her
favorite reasons to stop and stay in La Belle Province, by guiding readers
through three of her favorite destinations: Old Montréal,
the Eastern Townships and Old Québec City. Whether
low budget-friendly or fit for royalty (and rock stars!), large and small
accommodations are today's theme, each one sampled and selected because
they have a uniquely historic story to share with guests.
Prices mentioned are approximate and quoted in Canadian dollars.
Language Tip: Auberge = "Inn" or small hotel in French! |
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Do
you know exactly where you want to go already?
Click on Old Montréal, Eastern Townships,
Québec City! |
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Quaintly nicknamed the Paris of the West, Montréal
is nobody's clone even though it is the second largest French-speaking city
in the world. The destination for most visitors is the heart of the city, a
68 square mile island in the St. Lawrence River, first settled by colonists
in 1642. Surprising to many, this makes Montréal one of North America's oldest
cities. The island's extensive, enticingly walkable "Old Quarter", Vieux-Montréal,
is a relatively recent revival that includes the historic port area along the
St Lawrence River shoreline. Staying in Vieux- Montréal makes it possible to
capture the essence of this exciting area. |
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Huge
effort and expense have been focused on preserving and representing the city's
secular and religious past in an authentic, lively manner. Museums are seldom
static, often the backdrop for creative, colorful entertainments. Actors in
period costume frequently bring history alive while street musicians offer up
toe-tapping traditional music, and tour guides dress the part for historic walking
expeditions. Truly, new life has been breathed into the long-neglected cobbled
streets with art galleries, stylish boutiques, restaurants, lively markets and
a host of activities and festivals await the visitor. Montréal Tourism:
www.tourism-montreal.org. |
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Above:
Just round the corner from the Auberge Bonaparte, Notre-Dame Basilica is one
of the world's awe-inspiring religious visitor centers in Vieux-Montreal.
Right: Like  most
historic accommodations and eateries, Auberge Bonaparte's entrance is very discreetly
signed. Always carry an address of where you want to go, or you will soon be
lost! Alison Gardner |
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Le
Bonaparte, www.bonaparte.com, was
first opened as an award-winning restaurant in 1984 then, in 1999, as the historic
Auberge Bonaparte with 30 rooms that have carried on the first-class reputation
of the restaurant. Right in the heart of the Old Quarter, yet typically signed
with such subtlety that my taxi driver failed to find it, some rooms overlook
the inspiring architecture of Notre-Dame Basilica just around the corner, and
other rooms retain original structural features of the authentically-restored
structure. Prices range from $145 to $195 single or double occupancy, including
a gourmet breakfast in the restaurant. |
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Hotel
Le St-James, www.hotellestjames.com,
is a major landmark of Vieux-Montréal. Originally a prestigious merchant
bank established in 1844, its transformation to an elegant hotel of 61 rooms
and suites has a "money is no object" aura from the first step through the
front door. Fine art and one-of-a-kind furniture, spectacular chandeliers,
even the elevator art and elevator doors have stories to tell, having been
handpicked and shipped from five continents. |
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Room rates start at $400 and suites start at $575 in this member of The
Leading Small Hotels of the World. If your travel budget does not stretch
quite that far, you may still be able to dream while enjoying a gourmet
meal of Quebec's finest specialties in the hotel's Grand Salon or the lavish
high tea ($45) , including a glass of sherry or port. |
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Above:
The elegant Grand Salon of Hotel Le St-James hosts splendid high teas as well
as full meal service. Hotel Le St-James
Right: San Soucy
rooms and public areas include original mortared stone walls dating from 1723. Alison
Gardner |
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Auberge
Les Passants du Sans Soucy, www.lesanssoucy.com,
with nine ensuite rooms on three floors was the first historic inn to open in
Vieux-Montréal only 15 years ago. Proudly testifying to this 1723 fur warehouse's
venerable age, the present owner re-design left exposed accent walls of mortared
stone used in colonial construction long before brick became an option. Its
narrow steep staircases and no elevator make this historic treasure an impossibility
for guests with physical challenges. The inn also doubles as a colorful gallery
for showcasing contemporary Québecois artists throughout the public areas as
well as some fine antiques. Depending on season and room choice, prices vary
from $130 to $215, including a hot breakfast. |
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Despite
its rather unimaginative name, Québec's Eastern Townships showcase an
intriguing mix of United Empire Loyalist and European immigrant history that
is unique in the province. They lie just north of the Vermont, New Hampshire
and Maine borders and only an hour's drive from Montreal. Village names like
Sutton, Knowlton, Hereford and Hatley make it clear that the region was not
settled by its Québecois citizens until recent decades. |
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Left:
Located right on Knowlton's main street, Auberge Knowlton was completely renovated
and re-decorated in 1997. Alison Gardner
Below: Auberge Lakeview
Inn rooms still reflect the mid-Victorian period in which the hotel was built. Alison
Gardner |
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At
the end of the 18th century, British Loyalists chose colonial governance north
of the border over American citizenship in the new United States. They laid
the foundation for today's architectural heritage where well-maintained 100
to 150 year old structures are commonplace and sleeping with history is often
the only option. Both villages and countryside are popular for exploration in
all four seasons with guided and self-guided cycling and walking/hiking tour
routes clearly defined, and cross-country or downhill skiing in winter. Post-revolutionary
Americans themselves are the most common foreign visitors to these Eastern Townships! |
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The
most flexible way to explore the Eastern Townships is by self-drive car.
Alternatively, Limocar, www.limocar.com,
operates a regular bus service from Montréal into the region, servicing
a number of towns and villages. Eastern Townships Tourism: www.easterntownships.org.
ET Bed & Breakfasts and Country Inns, www.inns-bb.com/cantons,
will mail out its brochure. |
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Auberge
Knowlton, www.aubergeknowlton.ca,
was built in 1849 and renovated and re-decorated in 1997. This character hotel
in the heart of Knowlton village is the oldest continuously operating hotel
in the Eastern Townships, as attested to by the large banner (left) hanging
from its streetside wall. Each of the inn's dozen rooms with ensuite bathrooms
has polished planked floors, beamed ceilings and antiques galore. Room-only
is $110 double occupancy or with two country-style breakfasts, the price is
$125. Hotel guests also get a 10-per-cent discount on other meals at its popular
restaurant, Le Relais, which features local specialty, Brome Lake duck, on the
menu. |
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Left:
Auberge Knowlton proudly declares 157 years of hospitality history. Right:
You have to search out B&B Penelope's colorful sign in a quiet Knowlton
residential street. Below: Auberge Lakeview Inn celebrates winter with
seasonal decorations inside and out. Alison
Gardner |
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Recently
opened in a modest-size home dating from 1863, Bed & Breakfast Penelope,
rs.grant@sympatico.ca, is a cosy
piece of local history with a big garden, just two minutes' walk from mainstreet
Knowlton and a ten minute walk to Brome Lake with its picnic areas, beach and
marina. Each of its three guest bedrooms (some with shared bathrooms) has been
decorated with flare by present owner, Penelope Forbes-Grant. Included in the
price of $85.00, double occupancy or $75 single, is a creative four-course hot
breakfast and all taxes. |
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Auberge
Lakeview Inn, www.aubergelakeviewinn.com,
is another Knowlton gem built by United Empire Loyalists in 1874. It successfully
served the "summer people" arriving by the new railway from the booming
metropolis of Montréal. Post-WW II, it fell into a period of sad neglect
until it was completely restored in 1986. Its rare raised-design tin ceilings,
sweeping wood staircases and antique room furnishings have remained faithful
to the history of this landmark. Located close to Brome Lake in a prime
residential area yet only a few minutes' pleasant stroll to the village
center, it is a treat to stay in this 28-room inn or to visit its historically-authentic
restaurant for a meal of fresh, local fare. Room rates vary depending upon
season, days of the week and choice of accommodation. |
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There
are only three urban centers in North America that have been designated as UNESCO
Cultural World Heritage Sites: San Juan, Puerto Rico; Lunenberg, Nova Scotia;
and Québec City which has the further distinction of being the only fortified
city north of Mexico. The two levels of its historic quarter create quite a
different geographic and visual layout from Old Montréal. The upper plateau
was first selected for settlement by the French military in the very early 17th
century. High cliffs overlooking the mighty St. Lawrence River provided ideal
natural ramparts for fending off enemies. Following the British takeover of
the colony of Québec in 1759, merchants moved in and gradually built warehouses,
business headquarters and port facilities right into the early 20th century
to support flourishing trade along the river. Today, it is known as Le Vieux-Port
(The Old Port) that has largely become a beacon for visitors any season of the
year. Québec City Tourism: www.quebecregion.com. |
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Aside
from government business that understandably preoccupies any province's
capital, Québec City is chiefly a destination for the cultural and historical
traveler, especially those who welcome the addition of distinctive cuisine
to their holiday itinerary. A myriad of festivals, many with deep historic
significance, draw visitors from everywhere on the planet to sample the
region's color, taste and joie de vivre. Check out the world's largest
winter-focused festival, Le Carnaval
de Québec, and discover how much fun winter can be.
Most visitors to Québec City choose to eat, shop, explore and stay in the extensive
historical quarters. Pourquoi pas? The city's upper level has played
host to millions of travelers for more than a century, beginning in earnest
with the opening of the icon-like Le Château Frontenac in 1893 as a Canadian
Pacific Railway hotel. Its signature profile high on the cliff front continues
to be an orienting angel for anyone directionally challenged. |
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Above:
A dashing "British drummer" offers lively tours of La Redoute Dauphine
in the Artillery Park that has hosted French and British garrisons for 400 years. Alison
Gardner
Right: Leaving
from in front of Le Chateau Frontenac, a funicular ride should not be missed. Alison
Gardner |
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In
recent decades, Le Vieux-Port quarter has seen the birth of thematic museums,
colorful public markets, singular shopping opportunities, and indoor/outdoor
restaurants in the European style. These complement an intriguing range of historic
accommodations, some originally designed as inns, some recently transformed
from bygone warehouses and business establishments into dynamic family-owned
and managed auberges. A maze of winding cobbled streets beckon the reasonably
agile stroller from the upper quarter down to the port scene on foot. Alternatively,
a glass-wrapped funicular (right), originally designed and opened in 1879, smoothly
shunts visitors up and down the steepest part of the embankment day and evening
in two minutes flat. |
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Fairmont
Le Château Frontenac, www.fairmont.com/frontenac,
is the ultimate fairy-tale castle where the happy ending is that you have
618 rooms on 18 floors to dream in as well as some of the finest dining
opportunities and best views in the city. Some claim this classic example
of late 19th century mega-hotel architecture is the "World's Most Photographed
Hotel". But this accommodation is not just a pretty face. Always inventing
new programs to add some education to the guest's vacation, the hotel presently
offers guided tours
of its own illustrious walk with world history and those who have shaped
it, as well as the archaeological dig site that is proudly creating an active
construction zone on a prominent section of the its grounds. Le Château
Frontenac also offers cooking sessions with the hotel's celebrity executive
chef, walking tours of the Old City, wine tasting tours, wildlife observation
and many more possibilities in the area. |
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Le
Château Frontenac is a photographer's magnet any season of the year. Fairmont Hotels & Resorts |
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Auberge
du Trésor, www.aubergedutresor.com,
offers 21 ensuite rooms with a strategic location just across the gracefully-treed
Place d'Armes square from Le Château Frontenac. This three-star inn with the
dazzling red roof sits on the earliest location for France's military encampments
there dating from 1640. For the New World, that is seriously old! A charming
distinction of this inn is the many first-class historic wall murals decorating
the rabbit warren of hallways and polished wood staircases leading to the cosy
guestrooms. It is the perfect spot from which to explore both the upper and
lower levels of Old Québec City. Depending upon season and choice of room, rates
vary between $70 and $120 double occupancy; a delicious hot breakfast is $9.50
per person. Whether staying at this auberge or not, you should try the
French cuisine menu offered by its street-level indoor/outdoor restaurant.
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The colorful three-star Auberge du Trésor
has a five-star location. Auberge du Trésor |
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Auberge
Saint-Antoine, www.saint-antoine.com,
with 94 rooms and luxury suites is thematically unique in that guests get to
see exactly what was deep under the floorboards and behind the walls during
hundreds of years of settlement. Built on one of Québec City's richest archaeological
sites, the inn is owned and managed by the Price family which has its own impressive
merchant association with Québec City proudly spanning nearly 200 years and
six generations. Its evolving design and restoration in the last 12 years has
integrated three historical buildings of the 18th and 19th centuries, a wharf
and military battery from the late 17th century. With a vision of creating an
archaeological hotel, the Price family has partnered with the Québec Ministry
of Culture and the city government for a decade to expertly excavate each building
site and create a visual learning experience with stunning displays of the best
artefacts throughout the hotel. Even beyond the public areas, each guest room
and suite has its own adopted artefact to sustain the theme. Whether staying
at the auberge or not, stop by for a scheduled Saturday walking tour
of the building and a chance to see the museum-quality displays. Neither should
you resist lingering there over a meal in either of Saint-Antoine's two restaurant
spaces, each showcasing history in an inspiring manner. |
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Auberge
Saint-Antoine combines luxury hotel style and service with visible pride in
its own colorful past. Left: In one dining area, the early 17th century
flagstone floor is a major feature and the site's archaeological excavations
of military hardware, settlement clothing and tools of daily life are displayed
in wall cavities lit like precious art work. Right: One of dozens of
"windows" on the site's historic past displayed throughout the hotel.
Auberge Saint-Antoine |
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Auberge
International de Québec, www.aubergeinternationaledequebec.com,
is a hostel in the lower port quarter of Old Québec. Open year round, 280
beds makes this accommodation Canada's second largest hostel. It was fully
renovated and refurnished in 2003 when the hostel purchased three historic
multi-story houses adjacent to its own historic building that had been welcoming
(mostly youthful) guests from around the world since 1984. |
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Hostel Manager, Marc Tremblay, welcomes guests to the
popular bar where guests relax and compare
notes in the evening. Alison Gardner |
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The three additional dwellings, now architecturally integrated into the
original hostel, have been designated as private rooms and suites, some
with private bathrooms, others with two rooms sharing a bathroom. The additions
have made this hostel particularly attractive to older travelers looking
for relatively inexpensive accommodation in the heartland of Old Québec.
Typical of its hostel mandate, the price, starting at $65 for private rooms,
includes a buffet-style hot breakfast in the dining room, a friendly bar
to mingle and compare sightseeing notes with fellow hostellers, and full
access to a state-of-the-art stainless steel kitchen for cooking additional
meals if guests wish to do so. |
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To
explore tourism opportunities throughout the Province of Québec,
click on www.bonjourquebec.com.
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2007 Travel with a Challenge,
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New material added monthly
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